1.9. Excursion

Excursion to the Plateau de Valensole, Lac de Sainte Croix and Gorge du Verdon

Here is the photo gallery with a selection of photos taken by the participants.

Summary of « Plateau de Valensole » Excursion

The Plateau de Valensole extends along the southern part of the department “Provence de Haute Provence”, SE of France. This region represents the transition between the mountainous areas up in the North (Alps) to the more flat and deep river valleys (Durance, Bléone and Verdon), which surround this plateau towards the south. From a geological point of view, this area is composed of erosion resistant conglomerates that where deposited by ancient rivers during the Tertiary. The average altitude of this plateau is 500 m and it is characterised by a typical Mediterranean climate, with hot and dry summers and more wet and cold winters.

This Plateau is characterized for having a very colourful and contrasting agricultural landscape. Most important crops here are lavender and wheat, but also truffles and almonds tress. Thanks to this heterogeneous mix of crops and colours, this area became an important tourist site.

Originally this area was covered with thick oak forest. During the 13th Century, the demand for wheat increased and many of these forests were replaced. This wheat production was sold to the coastal areas of Marseille and surroundings. The traditional agricultural method was intercropping this wheat with almond trees and later on with grapes and oaks. The lavender crops were introduced later on in the 19th and beginning of the 20th Century. Originally the lavender was produced in the mountain areas but during the 1940-1950 the demand increased and it became too expensive to crop lavender up in the mountains. For this reason, intensive lavender production started on this Plateau, and it was mainly grown to supply the needs for the perfume industry in a town nearby called Grasse.

Nowadays, lavender fields remain as one of the most important land use items, although lately, and due to the fluctuations of the lavender price, there have been some important new developments in the area. On the one hand, there is an emerging market of truffles, which is leading to the expansion of oak truffles plots. On the other hand, some farmers have replaced their crops for irrigated fruit crops, although their profitability is still questioned. In the last decades, the price of oil is rising and this is also leading to the expansion of some new olive fields.

These market forces together with the increase of tourism are the main drivers explaining land use changes in the Plateau. Tourism represents a threat and an opportunity to the local development. In many cases, tourists are coming over to the Plateau in search of second homes, which is not only causing the urbanization of some parts, but raising a lot the prices of the houses. On the other hand, tourists are also coming to visit the area attracted by the beautiful lavender landscape, bringing in some economic opportunities for local villages. The future of the landscape of the Plateau de Valensole will depend on the trade-offs between agricultural and tourism development. Agriculture and tourism activity are closely linked as the picture of the Plateau de Valensole is still dominated by its large lavender fields. So local development plans have to take account of that and have also to consider that efforts have to be undertaken to show the diversity of the plateau and of its landscape.

« The landscape is telling us what to do » Etienne Ballan

Lac de Sainte Croix

Today the waters at the Lac de Ste Croix are a beautiful still blue. However, this has not always been the case and lurking in the depths below lies a village with a sad story.

The area is an alluvial valley surrounded by limestone. Because water penetrates limestone easily, water collected underground thousands of years ago and rivers formed. These rivers became bigger and formed caves, which eventually caused the ground above to collapse in on itself, forming gorges and valleys. The occurrences of river formation and limestone erosion developed a unique landscape. Originally The main population in the area was a village of farmers, Les Salles sur Verdon, at the edge of the gorge. Whilst the area was dominated by agriculturally developed land and livestock with crops such as olives, lavender, juniper and truffles. These crops were of enormous financial and social value with lavender considered the soul of Provence and truffles considered black pearls. At this point man was in harmony with nature and his environment.

Les Salles sur Verdon was a picturesque, nice village which had become cultured over centuries. The village was ideally situated away from the river to avoid flooding but at an ideal distance to access fountains of water. This had obvious benefits in terms of sanitation and drinking water but was also important socially as villagers gathered to do their washing. In 1973 the villagers were dealt an agonising blow when it was revealed to them that their beloved village was to be destroyed as a dam was to be constructed and the area flooded to provide drinking water and energy for the region.

Over 2 years the village was destroyed bit by bit whilst villagers still inhabited their houses. The houses were destroyed by removal of the roof, windows and doors and the remaining structure pulled down. Subsequently, loose parts were removed from the rubble which could float and damage the dam or hydrological machinery. The last act of demolition in the village was the detonation of the 100 year old church, which was dynamite-blasted as this was easier than taking it apart brick by brick. Ironically they left the village bridge intact as this was considered a monument and could not be destroyed. Throughout the demolition and construction of the dam the EDF were hated by the locals and likened to Nazis. Following the flooding, the locals were obviously still keen to remain in the area so formed a new community. However, this village only had around 80 inhabitants compared to the original 300.

The lake was filled in 1975 and this led to an increase in tourism in the area. This came as somewhat of a shock to the original villagers, particularly the elders as things that had never been seen before such as yachting, canoeing, windsurfing and even nude sunbathers were now common place. The new village is orientated towards and dependant on tourism. Unfortunately, the tourism is seasonal and concentrated in particular to the lake, although more than 20,000 tourists visit every year. In the months of July and August up to 4000 tourists can visit the village each day. Since the original village has been destroyed and the valley flooded many changes have occurred. The population was at an all time low in 1975 but has increased steadily since. Today the inhabitants are mainly retirees from various countries. The large volume of tourists does not come without its price. There is a ‘Tax de Sejour’ – a tourist tax to take care of essential maintenance of the area. Water shortage in the summer months is a problem, as is clean drinking water. Recently, laws have been passed to cease the construction of new buildings in an attempt to curb population growth. Houses are not allowed to be built under 100 meters above sea-level. Whilst, mountain houses must be concentrated to a particular area and not scattered around, to reduce pressure on the water supply. The area is now a protected area and is currently being sustainably developed on agreements formed around Parc Naturel Region de Verdon.

Bruce Thomson

Visit to the Gorge du Verdon

The Gorge is 400m deep, 700m at its deepest. There are social and economic aspects to Park. There is an effect of agriculture on biodiversity. Sheep and goat farming are the main activities. Losing agricultural landscapes and open spaces resulting in reduction in number of plant and small mammal species. Landscape will become more uniform if agriculture goes. Agriculture considered to have a positive effect on the landscape.

Fundamental aspect of management and development of the park is a participatory approach forestry, planning and agriculture and tourism. This involves asking locals what they want. One difficulty is the ownership of land i.e. those that own land may not be ones who maintain animals. These people have no stake in the land management.

One activity of park management is to make connections, “open eyes” and negotiate agreements to better manage areas. It is necessary to involve people and raise awareness of policy-makers who are not always sensitive to the issues. The Park meets with them to tell them the important issues. Undertake analysis of air photos to document development of land since 1950s. Geographical Information Systems (GIS) used to map various pathways for future development. These show if nothing changes, there will still be encroachment of forest i.e. the level of activity is currently not intense enough as it is. Aim to create sufficient awareness that people want to do something.

Selected questions and answers

Q. What is optimal?
A. People have defined what is best for the their land. Sheep owners need land for sheep. Nature conservation is one aspect for decision-making. Hunting is another.

Q. What do people think?
A. Study shows this has been an unusual 10 years. Community decided to re-open/deforest for biodiversity and reduce fire risk. Some local resistance and people said there had always been forest – showing the difficulty of social acceptance – even if reducing the fire risk. People didn’t think there was a fire risk, but plateaux had two important fires in last two years – fire risk is high.

Q. Erosion risk?
A. No doubt there is a risk. Don’t cut everything – cut tree by tree.

Q. How does the park communicate?
A. Public meetings and individual visits. Also use air photos and normal photos. At meetings don’t impose views or try to convince. The message gets through best if it goes through a person in the community.

Q. Good relations with people?
A. Have a network of people with a good level of trust in the community that they can rely on. However, there are also people with whom relations are tense.

Q. Is the population of wild herbivores large?
A. Probably. Large herbivores don’t graze where they should.

Q. How big is the park?
A. 180,000 ha

Q. Do people who live in the park think living in the park has a positive or negative impact?
A. Some think no impact, some think it is negative, others think it is positive. There are no regulations in the Park, and development is by agreement. Some people see “Parc” and have fear. Work of park bringing people together and making things happen. Negative people wonder what they do.

Q. Is there a core area?
A. No, no protected area. Objectives achieved though consultation, not by regulations – no imposed.

Q. What are problems of sustainability?
A. Main problems – rural depopulation, farmers leaving and forest coming back. Other problems – tourism is really important – but it does impact on other activities – especially agriculture.

Q. Other threats? Predation, invasive species?
A. Not currently a problem with wolves – one wolf. Very few attacks. But there is an important population on the northern side of the Park. Wolves increasing and could be a problem in the future. Sheep from Park use summer pasture in Mercantour National Park – and can be a problem there. Will work with sheep owners to find a solution if wolves come into Parc Naturel Régional du Verdon.

Q. How many communities belong to the Park?
A. 45 and 10 more may be accepted.

Q. Can one leave the Park?
A. Yes – every 10 years they can say if they want to stay or go.

Q. Any special regulations for the Canyon?
A. No, but there is a special program to make sure different activities work with each other.

Q. Abandonment the most important problem. Can community tackle the problem? Are there drivers/factors from outside that can affect situation?
A. External and internal factors. External factors – globalisation. Try to work on local drivers. Price that sheep are sold at – improving price local sheep are sold at – try to sell direct to buyer.

Q. Other threats?
A. Tourism – a threat and an opportunity. Also, high land prices as result of European people buying houses in which they live for 2 weeks a year – but ask for services. Population who live all year round can’t pay for everyone. Climate change – increased fire risk, less rain, less water – springs disappearing.

Q. Not enough water for rafting – does this affect tourism?
A. Yes it is a risk. Water conservation measures – work with community for good management of water resources. Clean water in a good way so can be reused.

Q. 2 days of water release from EDF
A. For economic reasons – negotiated between tourist people and EDF (Energie de France) who have to manage water capacity.

Q. Any winter activities?
A. No ski activities – warm winters.

Q. Any ecotourism?
A. Yes, rated bed and breakfasts.

Q. How is the Park funded?
A. Each community pays for participation. Provides 5% of revenue – rest from the state.

Q. Natura 2000?
A. 10% of area – all the gorge and the mountains.

Adrian Manning